Who’s hungry for some guinea pig?

July will mark my 5th month in Ecuador, and after almost 180 days in-country, I’m proud to say that I’m finally adjusting to the food differences. For your reading pleasure, I have chosen the best and most common dishes enjoyed here along the equator.

Fritado: This is by far the most popular meal that I have encountered here. “Fritado” literally means “plate of fried food,” and that’s exactly what it is. Fried pieces of chancho (pig) are served alongside mote (pronounced “mo-tay”), which is similar to soggy popcorn. Depending on what part of Ecuador you are in, you may also get a nice helping of rice and a small salad of red onion and tomato. People here love their fritados, especially the chancho, and they don’t let a single piece go to waste. As my 6 year old sister, Sofia, declares each time we eat this, “Me encantan los huesos y la grasa!” (I love the bones and fat). I have yet to get to the point where I will gnaw on the bones to suck out every last morsel of juicy pig, but I’m working on it. Until I am able to do that, I just give all my leftovers to Sofia.

Carbs: The Adkin’s diet definitely wouldn’t do well here. I knew coming into Ecuador to expect rice to become a main staple in my diet, but I don’t think I realized just how much of it I would be eating. There is not a day that goes by where I don’t eat rice for at least one meal. Cheap, easy to cook, and very filling – I’m starting to see why this is the most widely eaten food in the world. Yucca is another popular dish here in the jungle and basically takes the place of the potato, which is common in the mountainous regions. In fact, fried yucca is very similar to french fries, and actually better in my opinion. Noodles and spaghetti have the same popularity as rice since they are also cheap and easy to cook. Finally rounding off this carbohydrate food pyramid we have bread. I honestly have never seen so many bakeries in all my life. There is literally a “Panadería” on every corner, waiting to satisfy your bread needs. As if this wasn’t carb-loaded enough, it is not uncommon to have a mixture of all of these at each meal. For example, the other day for lunch I had spaghetti and potato soup, followed by a big helping of rice, more potatoes, more spaghetti and a small serving of canned sardines. Mmm, mmm.

Chicken: I was talking to my fellow PC volunteer, Kelly, the other day, and we were commenting on how accustomed we’d grown to Ecuadorian life. Our first few weeks in-country were filled with horror stories of how we’d seen some type of animal killed, skinned, dismembered and cooked for dinner. Now, a story like that is common and actually no big deal. Take chicken, for example. My host family has a bevy of poultry running around their property (which has led to my 5 AM wake-up time, thanks to the roosters), and these birds account for at least one of our weekly meals. Although I have not personally killed a chicken yet, I’m fairly confident that after having seen my host mom perform the “hunting of the fowl” on numerous occasions, I could wring a rooster’s neck if push came to shove. For now, I’m content just watching and eating.

Cuy: Nothing says “Come and get it!” quite like a grilled guinea pig, better referred to as “cuy.” Known as the filet mignon of Ecuador, cuy is by far the most interesting food I have encountered so far. Picture your favorite childhood pet, skinned and roasting over an open fire. Now picture it being the most sought-after and expensive dish in Ecuador. Cuy is considered a delicacy here, and a well prepared plate (which will include the guinea pig, some mote, and a small salad) can cost anywhere from $10 - $15. Considering I can get a complete almuerzo with soup, rice, beans, meat, dessert and a drink for $1.50, cuy is a little pricey. I have yet to try this tasty meat, but I’m preparing myself for when that day comes. Thankfully I never had a guinea pig for a pet.

Now that we’ve covered the main food groups here in Ecuador, it’s time to shift our focus to table manners. Forget everything you learned in cotillion. It would suit you better to practice all the things your mom specifically told you to avoid during dinner time. Instead of one hand placed in your lap while the other works the fork, place both elbows on the table, assuming a leaning-over-your-food type posture. And while we’re on the subject of forks, you can forget using them. Spoons and an occasional knife are the common utensils here. If you are lucky enough to receive a knife during dinner, place it in your dominant hand while clamping the spoon tightly with your other fist. Make sure neither utensil leaves your hands during the entire meal. If you are not fortunate enough to receive a knife, a piece of meat (preferably with a bone attached) makes a nice substitute. This should also never leave your grasp until it is time to loudly suck every last piece of meat from said bone. During the meal, you shouldn’t even think about taking a sip from your drink. This is reserved for after you have finished every last rice grain on your plate. You are then expected to drain your cup in one hearty gulp. Now sit back and admire your swollen belly, knowing that you have just completed a true Ecuadorian meal.